Recent Work
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I have recently had occasion to comment on a person’s photography, and give some advise, as I see it. As I sometimes do, I have collated it into this journal so that it may serve others as well. These are my own opinions, and not to be taken as coming from some authority on the subject. Hope it helps, particularly with Christmas arriving soon, and lots of family members milling around the lounge room. When shooting people, particularly when you have (a) a busy background, and (b) have not much distance to the background – a wider aperture helps isolate the subject/s. This is possibly the single-most visual and initial difference between what looks like a family snap, and a professional photo – largely because point-and-shoots do not have the ability go to very wide apertures. Wide apertures decrease the DoF (depth of field) – which is the region that is in appreciably good focus. A bit of experience (or online DoF calculators, or your DoF preview button) helps you to select the correct aperture to bring to attention the areas of a scene that you want to highlight. Narrow apertures (higher F-number) produce deeper DoF – bringing more of the scene into focus. Useful for landscapes and such – not so great for a busy lounge room. The point to the photo. / It helps to keep in mind as you work, what exactly you are trying to achieve. Lucking shots is what most people do, and being pleasantly surprised every now and then. But the truth is – there is no need for luck. A photo is a story – a visual slice of time, frozen forever in a way that cannot be accomplished by other means. A good photo maximises this concept, by bringing a message, story, emotion to the viewer. A good photographer is a storyteller. A great photo reads like a book. Light / When we shoot, we are shooting ‘light’. We are capturing how light reacts on physical objects, just as our eyes do. Learning to read, use and manipulate light sounds complex, but in fact it is not. A good professional photographer can immediately see and sense how light falls, how shadows interact, how scenes and moods change with different lighting. Using available light such as sunlight, or overhead house lights is one of the most important things one can learn. This can be accomplished from moving yourself around a subject to take advantage of the conditions, by moving your subjects, and/or by moving your light sources. Using flash or another source of artificial light is a field unto itself and is worth learning, but I won’t get too far into here, other than to say – pointing a flash at your subject and firing is the least effective and natural way to add light to a scene. Try bouncing your flash off a ceiling or wall. Focus / Obviously, your subject, or at the least, the poignant portion of your subject, should be in focus. Aside from the obvious, DoF comes into play. Widening your aperture will reduce the depth of your focus area, as well as bring in more light, allowing faster shutter speeds and/or lower ISO. When focusing, there are a few methods to ‘nail it’. There are very few times when manual focus is preferable with indoor group photos and current day cameras. One method is ‘focus & recompose’ – a system I use very often when shooting from 20’ away or greater (the further away your subject, the greater your DoF). This is performed by selecting your exact focal point on the subject (like the eye) using the centre area in your viewfinder, half depressing your shutter release button, and recomposing your photo to frame as you see fit. Alternatively, you can use a different focal point, which will minimise your recomposing, and therefore not shift your plane of view appreciably (which can shift your focus at closer ranges and wider apertures). Composition and framing / Another major difference between snapshots and great photos. When I take a photo, I instinctively imagine the image in my viewfinder hanging on someone’s wall. This is before I release the shutter. I have done this for so long, and so instinctively, that I rarely need to crop any photos. It is a good practice, saving post-processing time, allowing you to keep the entire frame (and pixels), and also satisfying. All scenes have a natural flow to them. Just as we read books, our eyes follow an image from top left to bottom right. This does not mean that all photos need to take advantage of that particular physiological trait, but it is handy to keep in mind. A good photo has balance, with areas of the scene harmonising to each other using light intensity, facial expressions, emptiness, lines, etc. In fact this is a whole huge subject in itself – the psychology of photography. Timing / Since a photograph is a slice of time, getting your timing right, particularly with moving and animate subjects – makes a whole lot of difference. It is one of the main things I look for when shooting. I think of a snapshot as a glass of milk. A well-timed shot is a Pina Colada :) / Look for expressions on faces that relate to the mood/scene/environment. Hands have expressions also, and often carry as much ‘weight’ as faces. Exposure / In my journal I have a brief commentary on exposure – it may help you. Not plugging myself here – just something I wrote quickly to save time when people ask – I point them to it instead of re-writing. Feel free to debate, query or challenge. / Hope this helps you in your Christmas photography, and have fun
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Possibly one of the easiest effects to create in Photoshop, but it looks as though it’s really complicated. I’ve used a custom shape for the demo here, but you can use this on photographs as well. Remember to duplicate the b/ground and then click on the eyeball to hide it, that is in case you don’t like what you end up with or ….. you make a complete dog’s breakfast of it :-) To practise on, you can do the same thing I have below – create a new file, mine is 800×600 @72dpi and then pick a custom shape. I right clicked on the shape and chose Rasterise from the menu. I then used a Gradient Overlay adjustment layer (available from the FX icon at the bottom of the layers palette) to create the file below. Go to the side toolbar and select the Single Column Marquee Tool. Looking at the image below the image below :-), you can click roughly in a similar area to get the hang of what’s going on. Press Ctrl + T on the keyboard to bring up the Transform Tool, or you can go to Edit>Transform. Place your cursor over the little Box and drag to the left (or the right). Press Enter to accept and then Ctrl + D to Deselect. You should have an idea of what is going on here now. So, go to the side toolbar again and this time select the Single Row Marquee Tool and click in a similar place to what I have in the image below, press Ctrl + T to bring up the Transform Tool and drag the little box to the top of the image. Hit Enter, then deselect by pressing Ctrl + D So lets do this again, but add a filter to the selected area. Use either the single row or single column for you selection, bring up the Transform Tool, drag it to where you want and then press enter to accept – DO NOT deselect the selection. Go to the Filter and choose something like Distort>Zig Zag choose some settings, hit OK to accept and then press Ctrl + D to deselect. You may end up with something similar to the image below. In the image below I gave the Shape Layer a drop shadow, unlocked the b/ground layer and chose another Gradient Overlay Adjustment Layer and below is the final result. It’s an extremely quick and simple effect. Have fun!
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I didn’t really know what to call this :-) Probably aimed at portraits, but you could try it on other things to see how it turns out. The image is brought to us by Orbán Ferenc over at the Stock Exchange site. All the settings used are relevant to this file 800 X 600@72dpi, they will change if you are using a higher res image …. and the technique probably works better on a higher res. Here we go. Open the start image, or one of your own, and duplicate it then close the original. Duplicate the image by dragging it to the new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette or press Ctrl + J on the keyboard. Change the blend mode to Overlay and then go to Filter>Other>High Pass. You can see that I have chosen a radius of 4 for this image. You are going to do another High Pass later on, but this should do for now. Remember, if you are working on a higher res image the numbers will have to be larger. Now you are going to add a Gradient Map adjustment layer. Before you do that, check that your f/ground and b/ground colours are set to their defaults i.e. black and white. Once you have the colours to their default, click on the Create New Adjustment Layer at the bottom of the layers palette and choose Gradient Map. Click on the Gradient (see image) to get the dialogue box. You should now have the dialogue box visible and you can start to make some adjustments. Usin the bottom Color Stops drag the black triangle in till the Location reads 15% – drag the white stop in till it reads 95% and move the Color Midpoint till it reads 55%. These are just the settings I chose, you can change them if you like. Once you have it as you like, click OK in the Gradient Editor and then OK in the Gradient Map to accept. Now you are going to do a Stamp Visible. There are several ways that you can do this – making sure that you have the Gradient Adjustment layer active you can hit the Ctrl + Shift + Alt + E keys and the 3 layers will be merged into one. Or you can create a new blank layer above the Gradient Map Layer, hold down the Alt key go to the little downward facing triangle at top of the layers palette and select Merge Visible – don’t let go of the Alt key until it has merged. Change the blend mode of this layer to Overlay. Go to Filter>Other>High Pass and you can punch in the number I have, or choose one of your own. If you hold down the Alt key and click on the eyeball next to the background layer, you can see the changes you have made so far. With the Alt key still held down click on the eyeball again to view all of the layers. You could stop there if you wanted to, but you can also do a couple of other things. Making sure that you are working on the top most layer, go to the new adjustment layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette and choose Solid Color. I chose a blue colour (see image below) and then change the blend mode to colour and you’ll probably have to take the opacity down as well. I took the opacity down to 15%. To further enhance this, you could then create a new blank layer at the top of the layer stack, grab your Elliptical Marquee Tool, hold down the Shift Key to get a circle shape, go to Select>Inverse and then fill the selection with black (or some other colour). Press Ctrl + D to deselect and then go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and give it a really high blur. I did about 60 on this image. Go back to Filter> and choose Gaussian Blur from the top to repeat the filter, or you could press Ctrl + F on the keyboard. I then took the opacity of the layer down to 50% – and here is the final image and then a comparison image.
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This probably isn’t really a Bokeh effect, but it will give you the tools to create one, if you take more time that I am going to take in this tutorial. I’ve opened a new file 800 X 600@72 dpi with a white background (this can be changed later), and then created a new layer above that by using the ‘create new layer icon at the bottom of the layers palette’ or you can press Shift + Ctrl + N on the keyboard and click OK to accept the default name, or name it something different. Before we go on the theory behind this effect is on each new layer, you are going to half the brush size and half the Gaussian Blur amount. That isn’t a hard and fast rule, it is just what you are going to be doing here. You are also going to be doing a Gradient Layer and you can change anything in the dialogue box that you want. I’m going to be using the default Gradients, probably without adjusting them. You can play to your hearts content with the different settings and hopefully come up with some really cool effects. I’m also going to be using a simple hard edged round brush, because none of us are likely to have the same brushes installed. Feel free to use other brushes. So, on with the business. Select a hard edged round brush from the brushes palette, I have chosen a 175 pixel brush and you are going to go and make some adjustments to the settings in the brushes palette. You can access that by going to Window>Brushes, or using the little window thingy on the top left of the top menu bar. See image. Click on Shape Dynamics and you can punch in the same numbers that I have. Click on Scattering and punch in the same numbers. Click on ‘Other Dynamics’ and punch in the same numbers. And then you can close the dialogue box. Make sure that your f/ground is set to black and the b/ground to white, and working on the new blank layer you created earlier, just click a couple of times in a different place. See image. Now go to the ‘Fill’ option at the top right of the layers palette and take it all the way down to 0% – the brush strokes will disappear. From the FX icon at the bottom of the Layers Palette, choose Gradient Overlay. The default gradient will appear (i.e. black & white) click on the downward facing arrow beside the black to white gradient to open the gradient picker. I’ve picked a default blue gradient and left all the other settings alone. When you have everything as want it, click OK to accept the changes. Go to Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur and choose a setting that you like, or you can punch in the numbers that I have below. You can still add other effects to each of these layers – drop shadow, outer or inner glow etc., Now repeat the same process for as many layers as you like. The final layer would probably be free of the Gaussian Blur filter. In the image below I have used 5 layers. On a couple of the layers I changed the setting for the gradient to reflective and radial and inverted the gradient. On the last layer I used a fireworks brush and chose a different gradient, I also added a drop shadow and sharpened it. Finally, I unlocked the b/ground layer added a gradient. And the final image is below.
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Add Feedjit to your profile/ or bubblesite / What is it? Get to know your visitors with / a Live Traffic Feed widget / You can Click the link on your / Live Traffic Feed widget to visit / your FEEDJIT Live page and / watch your visitors arrive on your / website in real-time, / complete with sound. / There is no sign up / see it in action click the image To get the feedjit widget on your profile you need to visit their web site to get the code.Click here / Since redbubble does not accept javascript or any other type of html code. You can only use the basic service. When you go to the page above click the Button the says “Get the Run-Anywhere Widget” / the code will look like below / Note each widget has it’s own specific number so don’t use this example in your profile / <a href="http://feedjit.com/ir1/cf449feeeec3deda/"><img src="http://feedjit.com/b/cf449feeeec3deda.png" alt="" ISMAP /></a> Now to make it work on redbubble / Change the code to look like what I have below / the “a href= ” is the link http://live.feedjit.com/live/cf449feeeec3deda/ / Note I changed the link to http://live.feedjit.com/live/your code number / and the “img= src” is the image / http://feedjit.com/b/cf449feeeec3deda.png / Put the two together like this and post it in your profile or your bubblesite / !http://feedjit.com/b/cf449feeeec3deda.png!:http://feedjit.com/ir1/cf449feeeec3deda / Happy Bubbling / Dan See all my How-to’s Here Includes “Framed image on Bubblesite home page”, “Adding Calendars to your bubblesite”, “feedjit Live Traffic Feed”, “Using tags on Redbubble”, “Add a visitor counter to your bubblesite or profile page” and More Get the Firefox and Internet Explorer Tool bar for Redbubble Here / See more info © D R Moore This written work cannot be reproduced or posted on the web without my written permission
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Ashley Riddell ~ ranash1995 Excellent Photoshop Tutorials Metallic BW portrait toning Lipo’s Photo Effect Retouch Digital Makeup by Christian Reppen Ship Speedpaint Waterfall Speedpaint Basic Retouch and Makeup Glamour Glow Skin Retouch Facial scrub for even, glowing skin Body Reshaping with Liquify Applying Texture Without Looking Like a Douche IceflowStudios Awesome Eyes Photoshop Tutorial “Excellent Photoshop Tutorials” was accepted into the How To RedBubble group. / Mahalo to the Hosts for including this, thank you so much!
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The mysterious Lab colour space :) Firstly, let me suggest that if you really want to know about the Lab colour space you get your hands on anything by Dan Margulis. He is the guy the gurus go to when they want to know something about it, he’s the man. A quick way of looking at the Lab colour space is this- L = Lightness a = Red and Green. b = Blue and Yellow. Using a curve in the a or b channels can enhance specific colours in specific directions. Using a curve in the L channel only affects the tone of an image without affecting the colours. Having said all that, we’re not going to be using curves, we’re going to apply a specific channel (using the apply image command) to get a desired result. The image below is from sxc.hu and I can’t find the owners info, so please don’t go splashing it around the web. The image below the start image is a comparison of the start and finish images. The original image is ‘as is’ I have done no corrections to it all other than resizing it to a manageable size for this tutorial – 800×571 @72dpi. Just before you get going. The settings I’ve used on this particular image may not work well on other images. You’ll probably have to fiddle around with different settings, blend modes and opacities to get the look you want. I call it playing :) Open an image, duplicate it and then close the original. Double click on the b/ground layer to unlock it and either choose the default name or call it something deep and meaningful, then duplicate the layer. My 2 layers are called ‘Layer 0’ and Layer 0 copy’ Working on the top layer go to Image>Mode and click on Lab colour – see image below. Once you do that, you will be presented with a dialogue box asking if you would like to merge the layers. Politely decline. Now you’re in the Lab colour space …... Next, go to Image>Apply Image and you will be presented with the dialogue box below. Some of the settings might be a bit different. Taking a look at the dialogue box – the source will be the original b/ground layer, which in this case is Rusty Car Copy. The Layer drop down menu is for the layer you want to apply the effect to – in this case the layer 0 copy layer. The channel drop down menu will give the options of Lab (which is a combination of Lightness, a and b) – or L,a, b channels individually and transparency is the last one. The blending option is familiar to most of you and so is the opacity setting. This is where you get to player with the different options, except the Source and Layer menus in this case. So you can go ahead and punch in the numbers I have if you like, or experiment a little bit to something you like. Once you have the settings are you want them, go to Image>Mode and choose RGB from the menu, politely decline the invitation to merge the layers and you can proceed as you wish. Go ahead and change the blend mode of the layer, use a mask to reveal or hide parts of the colour enhancement ….. but most of all, have fun :) And here is the finished image.
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Both guerrilla marketing and viral marketing are a forms of promotion that rely on time, energy, imagination and knowledge instead of cold hard cash. They’re about coming up with a unique idea that will capture people’s attention and imagination and will get you noticed. / click on these to see bigger images In this article, Delana from weburbanist.com explains the subtle difference between viral marketing and guerrilla marketing: “Guerrilla marketing ambushes the viewer and grabs their attention when they least expect it. Viral marketing is advertising that you voluntarily pass around because it’s cool, not necessarily because you want to help build publicity. There is some noticeable overlap where a guerrilla ad that doesn’t quite look like an ad is so great that you to tell other people about it. But viral campaigns can’t be engineered in the way that other types of advertising can – they depend solely on the user to deem them worthy of passing them along.” The best kind of guerilla marketing ideas are ones that get a second audience online. They make such an impression, they’re blogged about, filmed for youtube or forwarded via email. So can you adapt some of these principles to market your own work? Further reading: Amazing guerrilla marketing campaigns (weburbanist.com) Guerilla marketing definition (from wikipedia) Advertising Goes Guerrilla (Business Week) adverblog.com (great examples) bootstrappingblog.com (more great examples) Viral marketing basics (Jo’s previous post on how viral marketing works) Nat
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There are many reasons for using tags 1. Creating links to make it easier for your visitors to find what they want / 2. Knowing what images are in what group / 3. Help your visitors find what they want faster. For keeping track of what images are in what group, I’ve found that the easiest way to do this is by Tagging the image with the group name. Then making a bookmark for easy access to Group lists, This method will also show new images as long as you add the tag when you enter the image to a group. / To add tags to images Click your “art” button or Here , Then next to the image click “edit”, The tag box is below the Description box. / Tag Example: All images that I’ve submitted to the Group “Animal Kingdom” , I’ve added the following tag “animal_kingdom” / Search Example:The following will work for all users as long as you put your username, and tag in the places indicated in bold below / http://www.redbubble.com/people/yourusername/art/everything/tags/tagname / Once you get the results Bookmark it, Now the next time you try to remember what images you have in a group or have I reached the group limit you can click the bookmark and see what images are in that group and how many. / Bonus: Using the links from above to organize your images for visitors, Link an Image or text with the Links you created above / ( if your not sure how to do this See this post Creating Links Etc…on redbubble ) EXAMPLES: Linked text "Landscapes":http://www.redbubble.com/people/yourusername/art/everything/tags/tagname Linked image !www.imageishere.jpg!:http://www.redbubble.com/people/yourusername/art/everything/tags/tagname You can click the link below, It will open in redbubble it won’t give you any results but then you can then change the username in the address bar click “go” or just hit enter bookmark the result or add it to your “favorites” for future tag making . / http://www.redbubble.com/people/yourusername/art/everything/tags/tagname How to tag your journals / writings The above method does not work for my journls or writings / Example:I have a few How-to’s in the How to Redbubble group and I’ve tagged them with”htrb” So if i create a tag like above it would be / http://www.redbubble.com/people/envelope150/art/everything/tags/htrb / unfortunately the results give me a blank page (click the link above if you don’t believe me) / Here is how we can get the results we need (want). / See Here http://www.redbubble.com/search/envelope150%20htrb/journals / If you have a lot of writings it might be a good idea to tag these for many reasons. 1. Keeping track of what groups they are in / 2. Easy reference for other bubble members / 3. sorting by topic / 4. and many more…. I will try and explain the easiest way to do this and hopefully make it as painless as possible. / I will explain how I created the above results for my How to journals / Fist and most important tag all your work with your username / Step 1. Tag the journal I’m using “htrb” / Step2. Make a link to the list of journals with this tag / To do this we will need to use the search box / Enter your username and tag “click Search” I’m going to enter envelope150 htrb / Step 4. When you get to the results page copy the address from the address bar or bookmark it. / If your tags are fresh give it a little time for redbubble servers to catch up(up to 10-min) / Now you can use the address to make links to your journals for easy reference or group tracking. / I high lighted my username and tag below in bold, When copying the results you will have the %20 where the space is suppose to be. http://www.redbubble.com/search/envelope150%20htrb/ Click Here to see the results if you like Using the method above to create links for your images adds the ability to use more than one tag / Example: If I want to make a link to my osprey(bird) images I would use the search box and enter envelope150 bird osprey click “search” and I get this / http://www.redbubble.com/search/envelope150%20birds%20osprey only my images that include the 3 tags will show up / This method would be good for the Flower Lovers to separate their Flowers images not only by type of flower but color as well. Using tags like username flowers roses red and then searching those tags to make a link to their “My Red Roses Collection”. / Hope this tutorial helps in getting you started in fully customizing or just organizing your bubble profile. Bonus Tip To make a text box appear when someone hovers over a link add text in (these) like below "Landscapes(View my Landscape Collection)":http://www.redbubble.com/people/yourusername/art/everything/tags/tagname / See how it works below just place your mouse pointer on the link but do not click it / Landscapes / Happy Bubbling / Dan / Get the Firefox and Internet Explorer Tool bar for Redbubble Here / See more info See all my How-to’s Here Includes “Framed image on Bubblesite home page”, “Adding Calendars to your bubblesite”, “feedjit Live Traffic Feed”, “Using tags on Redbubble”, “Add a visitor counter to your bubblesite or profile page” and More © D R Moore This written work cannot be reproduced or posted on the web without my written permission
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An adjustment layer is a layer that only contains an adjustment such as levels or hue/saturation. They are more versatile than simply applying an adjustment to a layer in your image. For one thing they do no damage to pixels where applying an adjustment directly to a layer will permanently alter the image. Another is that the adjustment layer provides a layer mask so you can apply the adjustment to specific parts of the image by painting on the layer mask. Adjustment layers give you the ability to change the blend mode and opacity, and if you double click on the adjustment layer icon if will bring up the dialog box so you can make changes to the settings. I hope you found this information helpful. Feel free to add to this or ask questions. I will do my best to answer them.
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This quick tutorial for beginners was based on a request from CJ Hummel – she was looking for a way to tanslate the positions and names of the tools from my regular tutorials for use in PS Elements. Sometime in the next week or so I’ll post a page with the PSE tools and the corresponding names/places of the PSCS tools. For now, I’ve written a quick tutorial for beginners that will show you how to replace a white or poor sky with a new sky. (Keep in mind…this is my first look at PSE). You can download the tutorial from here: Replacing A Sky with Photoshop Elements 7 (note: version 7 was all I could get on trial)
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“I thought it was nice portrait, but then she told me that the woman is her mother and the reason she is covering her face is that she only has one eye” “I must have stared at it for 10 whole minutes before he explained that the whole thing was done under water” “She started painting it just after her boyfriend left her and it was all black and grey. Then she met someone and started adding colour. The whole thing took her 2 years” When selling your work in the real world, you have a chance to talk to customers about what inspired you, how you did it, why it is important to you. You can share a smile, or a tear. It is this personal experience that helps to connect a buyer with your artwork. It’s also what turns your image into a story. Online, this connecting process is more one sided. As the artist, responsibility is on you to invite viewers into your mind. Descriptions are your chance to give images greater meaning and context. To connect with the people who are viewing it or considering purchasing it. It’s the difference between a photo of an old house, and a photo of the house you grew up in and developed your first negatives in. Here are some great examples / Roadmap for Peace by nofrillsart The “road map” for peace is a plan to resolve the Israeli-Palestinian conflict proposed by a “quartet” of international entities: the United States, the European Union, Russia, and the United Nations. The principles of the plan were first outlined by U.S. President George W. Bush in a speech on June 24, 2002, in which he called for an independent Palestinian state living side by side with Israel in peace: “The Roadmap represents a starting point toward achieving the vision of two states, a secure State of Israel and a viable, peaceful, democratic Palestine. It is the framework for progress towards lasting peace and security in the Middle East…” I never was any good at folding maps back up… / Now there is only 999 more cranes to make…till world peace! / Angels of Allah by Anthony Begovic The Jama Masjid in Old Delhi, India – I believe India’s largest Mosque – one of my favourite buildings in the world. I love Islamic art and architecture. I wanted to create something different when photographing this beautiful building. Architecture pictures can be boring and lifeless – I didn’t want to represent the Jama Masjid in this way, because it is so full of life. I asked the boy in the foreground to run through the flock of pigeons so they would fly upwards, away from the building. It was a nice coinsidence that he was positioned in the doorway. This effect achieved, to me, looks like angels flying out of the Mosque. Angels of Allah. / Summer Spectacular by Helen Simpson A February storm unleashes its power in the beauty of non-stop lightning over Spencer Gulf in South Australia. This 15 second exposure shows just a small sample of a spectacular night’s viewing. The tiny lit chimney, that you can see on the left (which belongs to the lead smelter in Port Pirie), is actually 205 metres in height, which gives perspective to this, the power of natures finest glory. / A Thought, A Dream by Alex Worsley In a place as surreal as this, its hard not to day dream. This was taken at an ancient, monastery which was destroyed by Henry the eighth once upon a time. Sort of represents what i was feeling at this time, not this exact moment but this part of my life. Stopping for a second, trying to figure out where wanted to go, how i would get there. Taking a brief moment to reflect. So next time you see this box, don’t leave it blank. Use it to share a part of yourself with the world. Jo
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